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Traditional Soft Pretzels

"If you've ever tasted a real German soft pretzel, with a deep, dark, burnished skin showered with crunchy salt crystals, and a yeasty, chewy middle, then you know what you're in for here...."

INGREDIENTS
1 (1/4-oz/7-g) package active dry yeast (2 1/4 tsp)
1/2 cup/120 ml warm water (between 100 and 115°F/38 and 45°C)
1 tbsp barley malt syrup or 1 tbsp firmly packed dark brown sugar
3 1/4 cups/420 g unbleached bread flour
1/2 cup/120 ml cold pilsner-style beer
2 tbsp unsalted butter, cubed, at room temperature, plus more for greasing the bowl
2 tsp fine sea salt, such as fleur de sel or sel gris
2 tbsp food-grade lye, or 1/4 cup/60 g baked baking soda (see separate notes)
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