Sonoran-Style Potato, Cheese, and Tomato Soup

"This is my version of an undersung regional Mexican dish that’s deeply satisfying yet remarkably light. In Spanish it’s called caldo de queso, featuring chunks of potato simmered in tomato-tinted broth until soft, with fresh cheese such as queso fresco added to each bowl...."

INGREDIENTS
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium red onion, finely chopped
1–2 poblano or Anaheim chiles, seeds removed, thinly sliced
1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more
3 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 medium green or yellow summer squash, cut into ½" pieces
1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes (3–4 large), scrubbed, cut into ½" pieces
6 cups chicken broth (not low-sodium)
1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
⅓ cup oregano or marjoram leaves
1½ tsp. red wine vinegar
½ cup whole milk or half-and-half (optional)
10 oz. queso fresco, cut into ½" pieces
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