"This is worth making just for the heavenly wafts of autumn fruit, cinnamon, and allspice that fill the kitchen as it cooks. Serve the crumble when the fruit has just begun to bubble through and the topping is barely tinged with brown. Pouring cream, Chantilly topping, custard, or vanilla ice cream are the ideal accompaniments. If nuts are not a problem, try chilled Cashew cream...."