Perfect Refried Beans

"The mashed potatoes of Mexican and Tex-Mex cuisine, refried beans are a versatile, addictive, and delicious side dish. [Photograph: Robyn Lee] Refried beans are like the mashed potatoes of Mexican and Tex-Mex cooking: they're a versatile, addictive, and delicious side dish. While a relatively simple dish, this master recipe allows you to choose exactly how you want to make them, whether chunky or smooth, cooked with pork fat or vegetable oil, or made with pinto or black beans. Why this recipe works: * By offering choices, including bean type, fat type, and mashing techniques, this recipe makes it possible to get exactly the style of refried beans you want. (Read the accompanying article to learn more about how each component affects the final dish.) * Starting with dried beans and cooking them with flavorful aromatics like herbs, onion, and garlic results in a much more delicious final dish. Note: Epazote, a Mexican herb, can be found at Mexican grocers. To add other flavors to the refried beans, try sautéing a pinch of ground cumin or fresh chilis with the minced onion, or puréeing toasted dried chilis into the mixture...."