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Melted Fennel Pasta

"A fennel pasta for people who think they don’t like fennel...."

INGREDIENTS
3 large fennel bulbs with fronds (about 3 lb. total)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more
1 tsp. sugar
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 oil-packed anchovy fillets
½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
12 oz. gemelli, fusilli, or other medium pasta
1 oz. Parmesan, finely grated (about ½ cup)
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
2  Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
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