I Asked Two Italian Moms the Secret to the Best Lasagna, and They Both Said the Same Thing

"Moms really do know best...."

INGREDIENTS
4 ounces diced pancetta (about 1 cup)
1 medium yellow onion, finely diced (about 1 1/2 cups)
1 medium carrot, peeled and finely diced (about 1/2 cup)
1 medium stalk celery, finely diced (about 1/3 cup)
3 cloves garlic, minced
Olive oil, as needed
1 pound lean ground beef
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
1 (15-ounce) can tomato sauce
2 cups whole or 2% milk, at room temperature
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
15 dried lasagna noodles (not no-boil; most of a 1-pound box)
2 ounces grated Parmesan cheese (1 1/3 cups freshly grated or 1 cup store-bought grated), divided
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