"Unlike meat sauces in which tomatoes dominate, Bolognese sauce is about the meat, with the tomatoes in a supporting role. We wanted a traditional recipe for this complexly flavored sauce, with rich meatiness up front and a good balance of sweet, salty, and acidic flavors. We started simple—with just onions, carrots, and celery, sautéed in butter. A combination of meats, in the form of meat loaf mix, provided the right amount of meatiness. For the most tender texture, we cooked the meat just until it lost its pink color and didn’t let it brown. For dairy, which is used to tenderize the meat and give the sauce a sweet, appealing flavor, we used milk. Once the milk had reduced, we added white wine, which gave the sauce a delicate brightness. For the tomato element, diced canned tomatoes imparted sweet, acidic notes. Finally, we simmered the sauce at the lowest possible heat for about three hours and served it with rich, eggy fettuccine...."