"Hold the cabbage! The takeout industry has given egg rolls a bad name, but in the 1940s, Gourmet readers clamored for a genuine version of the "Chinese delicacy." Our answer was fragrant with garlic, scallions, shiitakes, shrimp, and roast pork...."
INGREDIENTS
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2 tablespoons oyster sauce
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1 tablespoon soy sauce
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2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil
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2 teaspoons sugar
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1/2 teaspoon salt
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About 4 cups peanut or vegetable oil
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2 teaspoons finely chopped peeled fresh ginger
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2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic
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1 1/2 bunches scallions (about 10), white and pale green parts cut into 2-inch lengths, then cut lengthwise into very thin matchsticks (2 1/2 cups)
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2 celery ribs, cut into very thin matchsticks (2 cups)
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2 medium carrots, cut into very thin matchsticks (1 cup)
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8 large fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded and caps sliced 1/4 inch thick (3 cups)
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1 lb medium shrimp in shell (31 to 35 per lb), peeled, deveined, and coarsely chopped
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1/4 lb Chinese roast pork (char siu) or leftover roast pork, cut into 2-inch lengths, then cut lengthwise into very thin matchsticks
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1 (1-lb) package Asian egg roll or spring roll wrappers
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1 large egg, lightly beaten
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Accompaniments: Asian sweet chile sauce; Chinese mustard